The spring seat installs in the actuator lever and is followed by the spring and retainer. In this case it’s a flat bottom job that requires a spring seat. You’ll never get it on later! (Image/Wayne Scraba) You’ll find the coil spring for the actuator differs from the one found on the leading shoe. ![]() That hook is for the return spring (more later), however it must be installed now. You’ll find there is a small secondary hook that slips into place. (Image/Wayne Scraba) The self-adjuster actuator lever is located on the face of the trailing (back) shoe. Note the retainer has two recesses designed to lock in the nail. A quick turn of the tool allows the nail to seat in the spring retainer. The OTC spring installation tool is used to compress the spring while the nail (which passes through the back end of the backing plate) is held in place. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Both the leading and trailing shoes are held in place by a coil spring perched over a “nail.” Here, the leading shoe incorporates a beehive spring. The spring can only be installed one way so that it clears the wheel on the adjuster. The adjuster wheel is closest to the park brake lever. With a little bit “finesse”, you can work the second side of the adjuster in place on the opposite shoe. Then hook one end of the adjuster into one shoe. The easiest way to install them is to hook up the spring first with the shoes off the backing plate. It’s not uncommon to come across seized adjusters and the reason is they were never lubed. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Next up is the adjuster. It slips in from behind, and in most cases, it must be assembled before the shoe is assembled onto the backing place (although we’re skipping the cable for this series of photos). (Image/Wayne Scraba) The park brake lever fits into the trailing (longer) shoe. The idea here is ensure the lube does not come in contact with the brake shoe (lining) surface. (Image/Wayne Scraba) The backing plates should be lubricated before going any further. The RH or longer shoe is the trailing shoe. The brake shoe on the right is longer than the one on the left. It’s easy to figure out: The opening for the e-brake cable faces forward. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Brake drum parts are typically “sided” left and right. During assembly, it’s a good idea to lightly lube the pushrods. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Begin the assembly process with the wheel cylinder(s). You’ll have to reuse some of your original park brake hardware. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Here’s a look at the collection of little parts you’ll need in order to assemble (and completely rebuild) one rear drum brake. ![]() They’re the solution when it comes to rusty, pitted and damaged OEM examples. (Image/Wayne Scraba) Summit Racing sells these new backing plates for 9.5-inch GM applications. Gloves and eye protection are good ideas too. You’ll also need some brake cleaner if you’re working with used parts along with a small amount of synthetic grease (not shown). This is an all-inclusive OTC tool set sold by Summit Racing. Certainly, there a number of parts involved, some which require a bit of finesse, and you’ll need some special tools too.ĭrums have been turned (by a brake shop, if necessary) the job isn’t difficult.įor a closer look at how it’s done, check out the accompanying photos and captions: Before you go any further on a drum brake job, you’ll need tools. ![]() You can purchase backing plates that are already “loaded.”īut assembling a set of drum brakes isn’t that tough. While it’s relatively easy to toss the drums and get a disc brake kit, many owners want to keep their cars original, including the original drum brake system. A typical set of drum brakes can have dozens of individual parts, you have to deal with all of them correctly in order for the brakes to function properly. Is, disc brakes are superior when it comes to stopping power. Even high-powered muscle cars were equippedįade. Thank you for considering National Parts Depot as your preferred supplier of quality restoration parts and accessories.Standard equipment for decades. NPD remains 100% family-owned, and will continue to strive to offer the finest parts and accessories available for your classic. That could not be further from the truth. It is an urban myth that "all restoration parts suppliers carry the same parts", and that price-alone is all that separates one supplier from another. In cases where multiple choices exist for a single part, varying in both quality and price, we list those choices so that you can choose depending upon your priorities, standards, intended-use and budget. All the products listed in our catalogs represent the best we could find in their respective categories. We place our highest priority on "best-sourcing", which is a never-ending process. Having our roots in the restoration hobby, NPD is well aware of what it takes to build not just a show winner… but also a vehicle that functions properly and provides years of enjoyment.
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